Camino de Santiago Saturday 16th May: Day 4

Navarette - Belorado
60km, total time on the way 9:00hrs

Left at 07:15 after a quick breakfast in  a local cafe. Quads and calves seem looser today after a good self- massage last night.

Ran through continual Rioja vineyards 

Running through Najera, I was suddenly ravenous so stopped for a bocadillo and pastry. Lunch at 9.45!

Distance markers to Santiago every couple of kilometres weren't very helpful!

Azofra was a small peaceful village with lots of well wishers. 

Just before Citeuna, a young, unemployed man had set up a 'donativio' stall. I bought a few bits and stopped for a chat. He informed me that the unemployment rate in Spain for younger people is 65%.  

I suddenly smelt the unmistakable smell of someone smoking a pipe. A common smell from my childhood but so rare now. Things change so quickly now. 

St  Domingo was a beautiful old town with an unspoilt ancient main square. I paid 3€ to visit the Cathedral which was too ornate for my liking. However the tomb of the patron saint, under the main cathedral, definitely had a presence and felt so peaceful. 

Just before Granon, I met 76 yr Canadian with his 13 yr grandson. The latter was similar to a dog out for a walk - racing ahead then waiting for his master. 

I had intended stopping at Granon but it was only just after 14:00 and the sun was out. So fortified by an impossibly large slab of cake/flan, I strode onwards, light of foot and soul. 

Church at Redecilla del Camino was amazingly tranquil - my feelings are safely in my journal. 

I finally stopped at Beldorado in bright sunshine. 

And the birds were still singing…

I booked into the parochial albergue. Basic facilities but with a lovely feel. I will sleep well tonight.

Phrase of the day:

"There is no way to happiness. Happiness is the way" - the Buddha

Comment of the day:

German lady: "Running a marathon every day can't be good for you!"

Richard (thought but not said): "Actually it's an ultra marathon!!"